Top Chef, Masters: Congratumalations, Marcus

Marcus Samuelsson
Perplexing with second dish
Is the way to win?

I’m bemused, darlings.

Let me explain: a while back, I saw two separate items “spoiling” the results of Top Chef, Masters. One had Marcus Samuelsson tabbed as the winner. The other said Rick Moonen was going to take the top prize.

So naturally, I assumed that they were a blind, and whoever was in the finale with those two would be the ultimate winner. And with the way the Round of Champions shook out, I assumed that third person would be Susur. Because, you know. . . he's Susur. He had the highest score in the entire, venerable, 2 season history of Top Chef, Masters.

And you all. . . seemed to agree in rather overwhelming numbers. (by which I mean not that the raw numbers were overwhelming – I’m not sufficiently humble to be overwhelmed by 14 voters – but that 75% of you picked Susur while the remainder were divided evenly between Marcus and Rick)

So when the edit started pointing up Marcus as the winner about halfway through the show, I felt a bit hoaxed. And I woke up this morning still feeling like it was a bit of a head scratcher.

It’s not that I don’t think Marcus Samuelsson is a fantastic chef – he is, in case you hadn’t noticed, Marcus Bloody Samuelsson—but the show gave the impression that he won with one course in his meal that the diners flatly didn’t like, or at the very least didn’t “get.”

And I know, I know, editing, blah blah blah. . . but that they gave him the win after that just feels like there was an element of something stinky involved – something somewhere between racial guilt and hipsterism. It’s like they went out of their way to reward him for making an African dish despite their decidedly confused reaction to it, either because they didn’t want to be the bunch of white people who penalized the African guy for making African food, more likely, they didn’t want to be the bunch of rubes who weren’t sophisticated enough to appreciate African food.

Anyway. It tastes a little sour to me. But that’s likely because I really, really wanted Susur to win (on a bright note, I somehow just realized that his DC restaurant is literally blocks from my house. So I’ll have to check that out at some point)

But regardless, congratulations, Marcus. I really want to eat your foie gras flan, and I’m glad you were only a dick in that one episode.

Let’s do this thing, shall we?

Los Angeles! The 3 remaining Masters roll out in their product placement vehicle. Rick reminisces about how far he’s come since last season when he couldn’t even finish his Quickfire dish in round 1. Marcus reflects on his journey this season, and how he’s put his “style and integrity” out on the line.

They pull into Union Station. . .oh that floor. So gorgeous.

Susur reflects on how he didn’t understand the rules at the beginning of the competition. We get to see all of his great moments, like when he told Tony he should be on Soprano Chefs, and when he said “aaaaahh. . .Margyoo,” and when he got the highest scores in Masters history.

K-Choi welcomes them to Los Angeles Union Station and reminds them about what’s at stake in the finale. She talks about the journey they’ve been on in this competition, and says that for the final round, they’re celebrating their journey as a chef. It’s the same final challenge they did last season – the first course is their first food memory; the second is the dish that made them decide to be a chef; and the third describes who they are as a chef.

I really love this challenge. I wish they’d use it on normal Top Chef, instead of the less specific/less guided “cook the meal of your life” thing. It seems like the childhood food course last season was a step toward this, and I’d like to see more of that

Anyway, Tom Colicchio and the three finalists from last season’s Masters will be joining the critics. Yay! Any night I get to see Hubert Keller is a good night.

Now they get to have breakfast together and reminisce at the Old Union Station restaurant, which is freaking gorgeous – it used to be a Harvey House restaurant, and was designed by Mary Colter. That’s your fun fact for the day, muffins. Don’t say you never learned anything here.

Marcus talks about how he doesn’t have food memories from Africa. . .and I momentarily think this conversation is going to a sad “We Are The World” type place. . . .but it’s because he was adopted to Sweden when he was three. Rick talks about how his father was an immigrant from Holland, and they used to clam together. We see ADORABLE Rick as a child pictures, where he’s wearing way less hip glasses than we’re used to seeing him in.

Susur says his first memory is great black bean sauce from Dim Sum with his father. Oh, yum on sticks. I need to get some Dim Sum in my belly sometime soon.

Shopping! They have an hour and a $1500 budget. Susur tells us that “being a chef is like a ninja. Your mind has be very strong.” He tries to visualize winning for the Andre Agassi Foundation for Education. He says “there’s no way I not being focused on” winning.

Rick thinks Susur is his biggest competition, because “he’s an enigma.” Oh, so Rick finds the Chinaman a mysterious, inscrutable man, eh? And Tony thought the whole Soprano Chef thing was racist.

Back to the kitchen with 4 hours to prep. Marcus talks about how he knew he was going to be a chef when he took over cooking Christmas dinner one year when his grandmother was sick, so his second course is a tribute to that.

Susur talks about knowing he wanted to be a chef when his first wife took him to eat Japanese food for the first time, and he discovered that food was a way to experience other culture He’s doing a wasabi tuna.

Rick talks about growing up in Flushing and his neighbor making bacon and egg with cheese and mushrooms, so his second course will be bacon and eggs with gnocchi and truffles.

Susur then talks about how he came to Canada with his first wife, who then got a professor position in Hong Kong. As she was going there, she was on a plane that got shot down in Russian airspace. Oh, God, now that makes sense. Now I’m actually pissed at Bravo for using it in the promos – I thought it was going to be some typical, hilariously Susur-esque thing, but instead it’s actually really sad. He wells up a bit, but says the tragedy forced him to get his shit together and learn to adapt. He thinks she’d be very proud of him.

I think so too, Susur! I love you! Commercial!

Back! Next day! They have 2.5 hours to cook. Rick talks about how he wants to see the $100,000 go to Three Square.

K-Choi enters with a “surprise” for them. Susur’s pissed off, because if there’s one thing a reality show will teach you, it’s not to trust anyone who comes in offering you a surprise, or a party, or a hidden immunity idol that looks suspiciously like a stick with a face drawn on it.

But this is one of those rare moments when it actually is a good surprise – they’ve brought in their sous chefs from their restaurants to help them out. Yay! I find it slightly hilarious that Marcus’ sous chef is black, Rick’s is white and kind of dorky looking, and Susur’s is Asian. It’s like they all hired mini-mes.

Rick is doing venison for his third course, to show he doesn’t just do fish. Marcus teases him about venison being “the fish of the forest.” Marcus is doing a tartar from his wife’s home village because his vision as a chef is to bring Africa into the food conversation.

One hour and fifteen minutes! Susur talks about falling in love with his second wife, and how he wants his children to appreciate Asian culture even though they’re mixed race and live in North America. So he’s doing a Thai lamb with polenta.

Marcus shows us a picture of his sister and talks about the problems they have getting clean water in their village, and how that makes him work harder for the UNICEF Tap project.

Susur’s antics are driving Rick nuts, because his sloppy habits and flailing around are completely contrary to Rick’s anal cleanliness.

The critics and past Master finalists enter! Time! Commercial!


Back! Oseland toasts to last season’s Masters and Gail tells them they set the bar pretty high.

K-Choi introduces the diners to the chefs, as though any of them need any introduction. Wait, no Gael Greene’s Hat? How are we having the finale? HOW CAN WE HAVE A FINALE WITH NO HAT, PEOPLE?

Augh. The night is entirely ruined now.

So the chefs start introducing their first courses (worst pictures EVER, by the way, Bravo. I could’ve managed better taking pictures of my TV screen, since that's what it looks like you did. Thanks a heap for that, elves).

Marcus explains the inspiration behind his Lightly Smoked Char with Sweet Horseradish Shellfish Broth and Mashed Root Vegetables. Then we hear about Susur’s Dim Sum memory inspired Royal of Steamed Scallop with Cantonese Black Bean Sauce, Dim Sum Shrimp and Crab Croquette (at left). Finally, Rick explains the story behind his his Glazed Kushi Oyster with Ameican Sturgeon Caviar, Hamachi and Live Sea Scallop Crudo (“Ameican” sturgeon, of course, comes from Ameica, a tiny island nation off the coast of Queens. I hope Andy Cohen shitcans his interns).


Oseland thinks Rick’s presentation is stunning and Rick Bayless says the oyster is perfectly cooked. Gail loves Susur’s black bean sauce, and Bayless says it’s Dim Sum “taken to the next level. Tom thinks Marcus’ fish is spectacular, and Chiarello calls it “a glimpse into a friend’s childhood.” Hubert Keller jokes “I would not mind growing up in that part.”

The chefs get the second course ready. Marcus doesn’t have all the ganaches on the plate. 19 seconds. He finally gets them all out with 2 seconds to go and says his whole experience there came down to those 2 seconds.

Marcus tells his Christmas story again to introduce his Salt Cured Duck with Foie Gras Ganache, Sour Tomato Jam, and Aged Balsamic (at left). Susur explains his first wife introducing him to Japanese food and how that brought about his Tuna with Wasabi Mousse, Pickled Cucumber, and Artichoke with Charred Sea Bream. And Rick talks about his neighbor’s bacon and eggs inspiring his “Bacon and Eggs”: Braised Pork Belly with a Poached Egg, Truffles, Gnocchi and Turnip.


Gail finds Rick’s gnocchi underdone, and Tom agrees that it’s chewy. Rayner says that the idea is great, but the execution iss not quite there. Tom thinks Marcus’s duck liver is genius and Oseland says “ooooh, it explodes in the most fantastic way.”

Heh. That’s what he said.

Hubert wishes Susur’s tuna “purse” had been sliced a bit thinner. Chiarello loves the broth, but Tom says it’s not as precise as Susur’s work normally is.

Back to the kitchen for one last food flurry. Rick says it’s odd to be judged by Chiarello, who beat him in the first round last season.

They introduce their third course. Marcus explains wanting to introduce African cuisine to the dialogue about food, and presents his Berberre Flavored Hamachi Meat Balls with Sea Urchin Froth and Wild Mushroom Couscous (Berberre is a sauce that’s kind of like a beubeurre when it’s completely ruined by Bravo’s interns). Susur talks about taking his first child to Thailand and introduces his Lamb Thailandaise with Chiang Mai Sausage, Peanut and Green Curry Sauces, Mint Chutney and Polenta (at left). Rick explains his fish-free Venison with Matsuake Mushrooms, Pear Butter, Stuffed Cippolini Onions, Brussel Sprout Leaves, and Natural Jus (at right, slightly below).

Bayless loves Susur’s dish. Tom thinks the sauces were well done, and Chiarello says this is his favorite of Susur’s dishes.

Bayless finds the texture of Marcus’ odd. Gail thinks the sauce is briny, but beautiful. Rick wonders if his reaction is because he doesn’t understand African food. Yup. There’s that white guilt/desire to seem hip and sophisticated coming in to play.

Hubert Keller says Rick’s venison is a perfect dish. Chiarello compares Rick cooking venison to “a baseball player playing basketball,” and says it was fun to see him stretch like that.

The diners say generic things about how this will be hard to call, and the chefs hug and congratulate each other. Commercial!

Back! Fake back! Susur talks about how he enjoys Rick, because he’s a character. Rick says Susur is a gentleman with great exuberance. Ok, so Marcus wins since no one has to stand around complimenting him, right?

Really back! They talk about how fried they are, and Rick says “there’s no losers here, really.” Susur waits a beat and says “no, but there will be two, right?”

I LOVE HIM.

They go to the Critics table. The critics look stern. Rayner thanks them for everything they’ve cooked in the last several weeks.

Rayner says Rick’s first course was one of the best oyster presentations he’s ever had. Oseland thinks it was perfect. Oseland also begs to be taken to the Dim Sum place where Susur originally had the black bean sauce that inspired his dish, because it’s phenomenal. Gail tells Marcus his dish “wowed” her, and Rayner says he honored the fish.

Oseland says that he found the gnocchi from Rick’s second course perfect even though others found it chewy. Rayner thinks the pork belly wasn’t braised enough to bring out the flavor, and Gail loved the egg. Rayner says that he loved Susur’s Sea Bream, but both he and Gail found the tuna “purse” too large and say it pulled the plate off balance. Gail says Marcus’ flan blew her away, and Rayner begs to know how he did it.

Rick explains wanting to surprise them with his third course. Oseland loved the minimalism of the third dish. Rayner asks how venison imported from New Zealand fits with his philosophy of sustainability.

Gail loved the layers of flavor in Susur’s dish. Oseland found the polenta a bit of a weak spot, but Rayner found it a “calming influence.”

Rayner says Marcus’ dish was amazingly rich, and he admires the story and technique. Oseland says the fish fell apart a bit, and Marcus says that’s the way fish is done in Africa.

K-Choi thanks them and sends them back to the kitchen for the last time. They crack the wine and toast each other.

Gail says that each of them is a “Master of their own cuisine.” But, as Susur pointed out, two of them have to lose.

They begin with Rick. Rayner says his first course was the best oyster he ever had, and Gail says his venison was extraordinary. Oseland says the meal was a story with a beautiful arc.

Rayner says Susur’s highs were exceptionally high, but Gail still can’t wrap her head around the tuna in the second course. Rayner says the third course exemplifies Susur’s skills at fusion.

Gail says Marcus’ middle course was “the perfect Marcus dish,” but Oseland says his last dish didn’t do it for him. Gail says that’s a sign that he refused to compromise the integrity of the dish for their Western palates. Rayner talks about how he’s intrigued that Marcus is looking back to the African food of his birth. Ugh, Marcus is totally going to win, isn’t he?

Commercial.

Back! The chefs reenter the critics’ table room.

They begin giving the scores with Susur, who gets a 4.5 from Rayner; a 4 from Gail a 4.5 from Oseland; and a 4 from the diners for a total of 17.

Next, Marcus gets a 4.5 from Gail; a 4 from Oseland; a 5 from Rayner (desperately trying to overcompensate for his Western palate); and a 4 from the diners. His total is 17.5 AUGH. Susur is out. I’m bummed. He’s proud that he gave his best, but says if he said acted like everything was ok “I’d bullshit to you.”

As a prelude to Rick’s scores, Oseland asks if he can marry him. Then he gives him 5 stars as an engagement present. Gail gives him 4; Rayner gives him 4; and the diners give him 4. His total, like Susur’s, is 17.

So Marcus is the winner. By half a point. He says it was the best feeling, and says people all over the world will celebrate it with him. Rick says he’s proved something to himself, and he’d do it again in a heartbeat. Marcus then claps and ululates, because that’s how they celebrate in Ethiopia, and that’s how he’s feeling right now.

And thus we end the second season of Top Chef Masters, not with a bang, nor a whimper, but with a ululation. See you all next week in D.C., right folks? (I mean, I’m always in DC, but next week Top Chef will be too. . .)